Majestic lammergeyer vultures glide by as we rest on a mountain ledge. A diminutive fifth-century church is cocooned in a hillside cave, decorated inside with ancient frescoes. Slopes of green, burgundy, yellow and fiery orange flora overlook unmarked ancient ruins in the sparse land below.

These unexpected experiences are all the more extraordinary because, remote as this place feels – and is – we are passing through the living, present-day communities of the Ethiopian highlands, on a trail in North Wollo between Geneta Mariam and Tadios Amba. Called ‘community trekking’, it’s a unique way to experience the country’s remarkable ‘tableland’.

Community trekking pioneer, Mark Chapman, runs Addis Ababa-based Tesfa Tours. The company enables locally guided, small groups to explore the broad acres, deep valleys, and looming mountains of this high plateau, hosted in traditional agrarian communities in a sustainable and respectful way, that also gives something back.

“Treks now run in Wof Washa Forest, Wollo near Lalibela and Janamora in the Simiens,” explains Mark. “There are 23 guest houses owned and run by communities. As tourism to benefit local people, it’s unique here. Visitors are amazed at the place, and humbled at the hospitality.”